It rained all night. Nice and cool, but the humidity must be at 120%. Our towels havent dried in two days. Any quick dry gear we have is still damp. In each of these rooms there is a salt lamp sitting on a desk. These lamps are kind of like the rough look lamps sold in wellness stores back home, but they have a bit of a melted and glistening look to them. In these super humid conditions, the salty lamp sweats something on the order of profuse. The big guy in a polo shirt and jeans down on the corner asking if we want a cab every time we walk by probably sweats less then this lamp. We even put a bath mat on the floor to catch the drips, and that too is soaked. I still havent looked into the science behind it… so in absence of facts, we will call it a miracle lamp.
That miracle lamp was off while we were sleeping, and in the morning it continued to drip. Breakfast was an omelette with fruit and some really doughy white bread toast. The salt grinder on the table was really just there for show as two minutes of grinding produced only a mushy paste that landed squarely on the plate with a fwap. The peppercorns ground up nicely though and that got me thinking that salt infused peppercorns would really cut a persons work in half while seasoning. Humidity proof, and super tasty.
We wrapped up breakfast and shared stories of the interesting people we have met. The rain let up a little and we braved the outdoors, armed with umbrellas and no sunscreen. Living dangerously! A stroll on the beach was in order since it really was our last day here. We also needed to get out as the sitting, writing and researching was creating a little cabin fever.
We wandered from one end to the other. Checking out the rebuilding efforts on each storm damaged deck. The place we ate at a couple nights ago had this strange lean to the upper deck, and after standing out in front of the place, you could see that workers have gone and put in 18-20inch adapters to raise the main deck to the flatness we dined on. The upper deck will need some serious reinforcing before they jack that cantilevered structure back to its proper level. Amazing that the damage in some parts was more due to sinking than smashing from loose boats.
Still not rained on, we continued down the beach to inspect the work of more waterfront businesses. Different strategies were all being employed to either resurrect their patio dining, or build new. Square steel tube on one deck. Cheap concrete blocks stacked up for an other. Cinder block walls creating a perimeter and an army of guys with wheelbarrows loading up the hole with rocky fill. All different. All interesting. Lots of labor and labor is cheap. The materials are close to North American prices though, other than wood and dirt.
We were still full from breakfast, but being as it was noonish we started our search for food. Slowly, but we started. We went back to Simon Says. This was a small shop with an eclectic back yard full of random garden seating. Melanie was interested in dining al fresco, however the still and very humid air warranted parking ourselves in front of a fan or two. One more hibiscus iced tea, and this time a dragonfruit smoothie. A big tall glass of purple, and very tasty. We used that violet drink to wash down a chicken panini. Fresh, but dry bun. Definitely needed a purple chaser.
The rain came. Those cute garden dining spots were soaked through in seconds. Gutters were overwhelmed, but we still stayed relatively dry. It seems these days dryness is really just not dripping…like the salt lamp. We waited for the rain to pass and made our way back for a nap. A hard life.
Now what I haven’t touched on is our health. With all the crazy weather, altitude changes, random foods and waterborne bugs our bodies are still adapting too. Sometimes it is hard to diagnose what we might have. Today, I swear I have a cold. How, I don’t know. When it started…hard to say. Melanie had some sniffles for two or three days a week ago…so maybe that was it. We brought lots of pills to deal with stomach issues…but no cold meds. Pharmacies are limited in what they offer, so it looks like I will just have to tough this one out.
I sniffled my way through dinner, again at the Barrio Cafe. No random guests striking up conversations tonight. San Juan del Sur actually looked a bit empty tonight. Maybe the rain keeps everyone in. Maybe they are all just waiting for ladies night at the Iguana from 10-12, where ladies drink free. 7pm hit and we were done for the night. One watermelon lemonade, with rum, and we strolled back in the dark drizzle for the night.
Big travel day tomorrow. Sleep is necessary. We have a cab taking us to the border where we will have to navigate multiple checkpoints, pay some minor fees, and walk our way across to Costa Rica. After that a couple bus rides should put us in Playa del Coco before dark. That is our hope anyways.
So an early night. I just need a way to clear this headache and sinuses